*** sailor suits: American styles chronology early mid-Victorian years








American Sailor Suit Chronology: The 1860s

sailor suits 1860s
Figure 1.--This CDV pprtrait is undatef, but looks to have been taken in the late-1860s. The early 70s is possible, but the 60s we think is more likely, in part because of the plain studio setting. The boy is unidentified, but looks to be about 4 years old. The portrait was taken by J.E. Larkin out of Elmira, New York. Note the very plain styling. While there are no stripes, the boy is clearly wearing a sailor-styled "V"-front blouse.

We know much more about fashion in the 1860s than any other previous decade. The appearance of the albumen print and the CDV substantially reduced the cost of a studio portrait and there was as a result, a literal explosion in the number of portraits taken. Outfits with army stylistic touches, including a row of buttons, were still worn during the Civil War era (1861-65). These military-looking jackets were still popular in the early 1860s, but for some reason were declining in popularity. We do begin to see some sailor suits in the 1860s, but they were not yet very common. We have found relatively few in the photigraphic record. It was the cut-away jacket that was more common for younger boys, a style that seems related to Zouave uniforms. We notice only a few sailor suits from the 1860s. We believe that indicated that the style was not yet very common in the United States. We do not yet have a large enough number of sailor suit images from the 1860s to know much about the styling. We see both the "V"-front blouses and stripes being used for the detailing. Sailor suits seem to have been used for younger boys up to about 8 years of age. Many were made with knee pants. We seem being worn with white long stockings. We have not yet found girls wearing sailor dresses in the 60s.

Popularity

We know much more about fashion in the 1860s than any other previous decade. The appearance of the albumen print and the CDV substantially reduced the cost of a studio portrait and there was as a result, a literal explosion in the number of portraits taken. We do begin to see some sailor suits in the 1860s, but they were not yet very common. Wec do see a number of examples in contrast to the 50s when they wee relatively rare. We have found relatively few 1860s sailor suits in the photigraphic record. It was the cut-away jacket that was more common for younger boys, a style that seems related to Zouave uniforms. We notice only a few sailor suits from the 1860s. We believe that indicated that the style was not yet very common in the United States.

Army Jackets

Outfits with army stylistic touches, including a row of buttons, were still worn during the Civil War era (1861-65). These military-looking jackets were still popular in the early 1860s, but for some reason were declining in popularity.

Styling

We have only limited information about sailor suit styling in the 1860s. We do not yet have a large enough number of sailor suit images from the 1860s to know much about the styling. Sailor suits were not all that common in the 60s. We see both the "V"-front blouses and stripes being used for the detailing. But thectwo were often not combined. We do not see many traditinally styled sailor suits with three-stripe detailing. A factor here may be that actual naval uniforms were very plain without the stripe detailing. We thus see the basic V-front blouses, but done with all kinds of styling. Some of the blouses weecvery plain. Other had all kinds of embroidered designs with not naval connection. Some of the collars were done in different ciolors or with other material. The most notable observation about sailoir suits during the decade is the cdiversity of dstyling used for them.

Ages

Sailor suits seem to have been used for younger boys up to about 8 years of age, but that is just a preliminary assessment at his time.

Pants

American sailor suits in the 1860s were made with both long pant and knee pants. We do not see knickers to any extent, but we do see long pants and straight-leg knee pants. Long pants wee still dominant in the 1860s, buy with sailor suits we see many knee pants. We have not, however, archived enough portraits to make any firm assessments.

Hosiery

Because knee pants appeared for the first time as an important style we are able to get some idea about hosiery. Of course long pants were still common so we only get to see the hosiery that some of the boys are wearing. We see a lot of the boys wearing knee pants wearing white long stockings. White long stockings are strongly associated in the 1860s. We do not see boys wearing white long stockings to any extent in the 1870s. This was not only for sailor suits, but other suits as well. Long stockings were very common and white long stockings were the most common. Unfortunately much of the available studio photography is no dated. So to use these images we are forced to assess the dates. We welcome input from readers on these assessments. We see some boys wearing striped stockings by the end of the decade. Without dates we can not identify with any precision about just when the striped stockings appeared.

Gender

We have not yet found girls wearing sailor dresses in the 60s. Sailor sttling would become very populart with girls, but we do not yet see it in the 1860s.

Dating 1860s-70s Sailor Suit Portraits

Many of our photographic images are not dated. We can generally identify 1860s, 70s, and 80s portraits. Clothing styles, poses, format, and other factors that are useful in identifying images. but of course not precisely. Ot is difficult to diffeentiate late-60s and early 70s images and also late-70s and early-80s images. While undated images can often nit be dated precisely, they still provide valuable data on period fashion trends. Readers should bear this in mind when looking at this section. Of course reader insights on the images are always welcome.







HBC






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Created: 10:41 PM 9/6/2008
Last updated: 6:48 PM 12/10/2025