American Eton Collars: Neckwear Types


Figure 1.--This CDV portrait from Wisconsin shows an American bow wearing a colorfully stripped bow tie and Eton collar. His jacket is interesting. It shows some elements of the cut-away jacket which was going out of style and the Norfolk jacket that was coming into style. The portrait is not dated, but the style of the bow tie/cross tie and jacket and the fact that it is a CDV portrait suggests that it was taken in the 1870s. Cabinet cards and floppy bows were more common in the 1880s.

American boys wore a range of neckwear types, including stocks, cravats, bows, ties, and other items. The popularity of Eton collars and the neckwear wirn with thm varied over time. We see American boys wearing very small collars in the 1850s and 60s done in the Eton shape, but rarely worn with bows. Boys in the 70s might wear a small bow looking like a bowtie with their Eton collars. This changed in the 1880s-90s when boys might wear quite large floppy bows with their Eton collars. This was most common for younger boys, but we see older boys into their younger teens wearing them. We see large numbers of boys wearing large Eton collars are Eton-like collars with floppy bows in the 1880s and 90s. A good example is two Reading brothers. Another example is Charles Dorff about 1905. This was in sharp contrast to England wear bows were less common. After the turn of the century, it became more common for American boys to wear Eton collars more like English boys with no bow at all. This was the general pattern by the 1910s. Many boys did not wear neckwear with Eton collars. The ones that did primarily wore floppy bows or bow ties when wearing Eton collars in the photographic record. There were different types of both. Some of the floppy bows in the 1880s and 90s are so large that we can barely make out the collar. The bows were done in a great variety of patterns and colors. We note different styles of bow ties in both colors and black. The vertical neck tie was rarely worn with Eton collars. We see some examples, but not very many. We rarely see any other types of neckwear other than bows, in some cases large floppy bows, and bow ties being worn with Eton collars.

No Neckwear

We see American boys wearing very small collars in the 1850s and 60s done in the Eton shape, but rarely worn with bows. Many boys did not wear neckwear with Eton collars. The ones that did primarily wore floppy bows or bow ties when wearing Eton collars in the photographic record. There were different types of both.

Stocks


Bow Ties

Boys in the 70s might wear a small bow looking like a bowtie with their Eton collars. The sizes of the bowties nd bowtie like neckwear varied. We note different styles of bow ties in both colors and black. We rarely see any other types of neckwear other than bows and bow ties being worn with Eton collars. This was esocilly true of the clkassic detachanle Eton ollsr. When the smaller attached collars became popular, they ere often worn without nckwear, but quite a few boys wore them with bowties.

Floppy Bows

Neckwear fasdhions chnged remarkbly in the 1880s. We see boys in the 1889s and 90s wearing quite large floppy bows with their Eton collars. This was most common for younger boys, but we see older boys into their younger teens wearing them. We see large numbers of boys wearing large Eton collars are Eton-like collars with floppy bows in the 1880s and 90s. A good example is two Reading brothers. Another example is Charles Dorff about 1905. This was in sharp contrast to England, the home of the Eton collar, wear bows were less common. After the turn of the century, it became more common for American boys to wear Eton collars more like English boys with no bow at all. This was the general pattern by the 1910s. Some of the floppy bows in the 1880s and 90s are so large that we can barely make out the collar. The bows were done in a great variety of patterns and colors.

Neck Tie

The vertical neck tie was rarely worn with Eton collars in America. We see some examples, but not very many. Most of the examples come from the 1920s and 30s when detachable Eton collrs were going out of style. A good ecmple is the Tucker boys in 1937. What was going on at the time was the lrge detachable collar was going out of style and boys began wearing blouses with much smaller attached collsrs in both the Eton and Peter Pan style. These blouses and junior Eton suits were often work without neckwear.







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Created: 5:42 PM 12/25/2007
Last updated: 6:34 PM 11/3/2016