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The boater was at first they were seen as a kind of sailor hat and this was its origin as the Royal Navy was beginning to develop uniforms for ratings (enlisted men) (mid-19th century). We believe that began at about the same time that phoography was invented. And it continued through most of the 20th century. It was, however, totally unsuitable as naval uniform head wear. The substantial brim would catch he wind and go flying off at sea. It might be used as a dress uniform ashore, but as a working uniform headwear at sea is a different matter. They also began to be seen as colorful school head wear. Also at mid-century we begin to see them at the prestigious public (elite-boarding) schools. Gradually they became hat form for younger boys and not part of a school uniform. They were worn with sailor suits, but may other outfits as well. We think they were especially popular with well off families. Boaters were popular with England boys during the late-19th century and at the turn-of-the 20th century. We even see some girls wearing hem. We do not yet have a complete chronology. We first notice them at mid-century. We presume they were worn earlier, but because English Dags and Ambros are relatively rare, we have not yet found images from the 1840s and 50s. This of course does not mean that they were not yet worn. With the appearance of the CDV in the 1860s we do see boaters. Age conventions over time. At first they were worn by sailors and older school boys (mid-19th century). As the 19h century progressed, we see younger primary school-age boys wearing them with a variety of outfits, but not to school. They seem especially popular at the turn-of-the century. The boys here are a good example (figure 1). This did not change until after the turn-of-the 19th century when we only continue to see them by older boys at the elite public schools. The earliest boater we have found so far was was worn by Earnst Frederick in 1861. It has a plain dark hat band. We see another example with the Watson boys in 1863, this time with a light-colored hat band. We note a Wade-Gery boy in 1873. Thus we can assume the boys wearing them went to private schools that had uniforms. We note the Gibbs family in 1906. Almost the entire family wore boaters. They were widely worn at many private schools, but in the 19th century were not just school wear. After the early-20th century and World War, the boater becomes less common and most of the boaters we still see were worn as part of school uniforms.
Boaters were made popular by the use in England. Theey were, however, an imported style. A shepherdess named Pétronille Cantecor in the mddle of he French revoluion with time on her hands, fashioned a hat with destincive brim to protect her from the sun. She began sellng them and tey became known as the canotier hat. .
Making has from strw was not common at the time. They proved popular and launched a millinery industry. Some of the peple that took to the style wwre boatmen beause they were out in the sun all day, especially during the summer. Paris and other French boatmen began wearing them. They were also adopted by Venitian boatmen--the famous gondoliers, we are no sure just when. They continued to wear these hats to this day. Parisian authorities authorised the use of canoes and other small l rowing or sailing boats on the Seine (1840s). They soon became fashionable, not only or working boatmen, but people enjoying geting out on the water as a leisure acivity--and looking fashionable while doing so. Emperor Napoleon III decided to promote tourism as a profiable endevor. And boating France's rivers and canals began very popular. Cantecor straw hats becameassocaited wit boaing and thu became known as boaters. The Venetian canotier hat had a ribbon that served as a hat band that fell off the back of the hat. Some were edged with a matching color ribbon. Because of he gondolier, the hats were identified with boating or sailing, and resulted in being called boaters.
The boater was at first they were seen as a kind of hat for boaren. And in England this included the Royal Navy was beginning to develop uniforms for ratings (enlisted men) (mid-19th century). This happened at aboutv the same timw that photography was invented. Given the use by Venitian gondoliers, it seems to have occured to the Royal Navy admirals that it would be a uniform headwear for ratings. It was, however, totally unsuitable as naval uniform head wear. The substantial brim would catch he wind and go flying off at sea. It was one thing for gondoliers to wear them while they pole the way arond the sheltered canals of Venice. The stormy seas that the Royal Navy operared in were very different. It might be used as a dress uniform ashore, but as a working uniform natter at sea is a different matter. It appears that French boatmen were the first to adopt boaters and were a more important influence. Pratical or not, the boater wa worn by Royal Nvy raings through most of the 20th century. The boater also began to be seen as colorful school head wear. Also at mid-century we begin to see them at the prestigious public (elite-boarding) schools. We notice boaters being worm in the 'The Boat Race', an annual set of rowing races between the Cambridge University Boat Club and the Oxford University Boat Club. It is conducted on the River Thames in London. It is known as the University Boat Race and the Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race.
The boater for some reason had a flat top. The sides of top were a cilindrical about 2-inches high, alyhough his could vary slightly. There was then a moderate brim,ysuallslghlylss than the cilindrical part of the hat.
The Venetian canotier hat had a ribbon that served as a hat band that fell off the back of the hat forming streamers. While the English boaters did not retain the straemers, we note that sailor headwear, both for boys and actual sailors did retain the stremers. The gondalies hats were edged with a matching color ribbon. The English boaters lost the brim edging and the streamners. but reained a colorful hanand. Some were done in the same colors as the school tie.
The boater originated in Venice and were worn by the city's many boat men. They were adopted by Parisian boatmen and evenully British boatmen. We do nothave photographic evidence of that, but we see boys as at Britain's prestigious public schools earing them by the mid-19th century. We suspect this occured (1850s), but d not yet have photograoic evidence. Probanly the annual Cambrdge-Oxford Regatta (The Boat Race) was the transfer point. And baters are still wir for these events. We do see boaters being commnly worn bu upper-class boys (1860s. A good examole is Johnny Wilka?ssel. Gradually they became seen as a hat form for younger boys and not part of a school uniform. Perhaps because of their nautcal origins, they were worn with sailor suits, but may other outfits as well. We think they were especially popular with well off families. Boaters were popular with England boys during the late-19th century and at the turn-of-the 20th century. We even see some girls wearing them as well (late-19th century). We do not yet have a complete chronology. We first notice them at mid-century. We presume they were worn earlier, but because English Dags and Ambros are relatively rare, we have not yet found images from the 1840s and 50s. This of course does not mean that they were not yet worn. With the appearance of the CDV in the 1860s we do see boaters.
The clothing English boys wore with boaters is a little complicated. At first we are talking about older boys at public (elite boarding) schools. Because he basically fragile boaters were impractical as boys wear, we only see hem being worn when he boys were dressed up. And mostly by well-to-do or at least families n comfortable circumstance. Younger boys might wear wide-brimmed hats, but school age boys might wear boaters. This include a range of outfits like cut-away jackets as the boys here are wearing (figure 1). We also see boaters being worn with Fauntleroy and sailor suits. Sailor suits were often worn with sailor caps of some kind, bu boaters were also a popular choice at least for boys up to about age 10 years. This began to decline for boys at about age 8 years or so because so many of the well-to-do children went to private preparatory schools (primary-level boarding schools). While this usually began at abuut age 8 years, some boys might begin a little later. Thus you do not tend to see see older English primary children wearing sailor suits, especially with boaters. And these schools had school uniforms which usually involved the iconic peaked school caps. When they went on to public schools, they might wear boaters, such as Harrow. But even at public schools, the boater was worn mostly by the older boys, usually during the summer.
Age conventions for boaters varied over time. At first they were worn by adult boaters, sailors, and older school boys (mid-19th century). As the 19h century progressed, we see younger primary school-age boys wearing them seasonally with a variety of outfits, but not normally to school. They seem specially popular at the turn-of-the century. The boys here are a good example (figure 1). The children look to be about 3-9 years old. The boys would have been about 6-9 years old. A boater of course is unpractical for school age boys. It is impractical because it is so frangible. So we mostly see boaters when the boys are dressed up and with their parents. This did not change until well after the turn-of-the 20th century when we only continue to see them by older boys at the elite public schools. After World War I in he 1920s, these are the only boys we see wearing them. The earliest boater we have found so far was was worn by Earnst Frederick who looks to be about 8 years old and probably came from an affluent family in 1861. His boater has a plain dark hat band.
We see another example with the Watson boys in 1863, this time with a light-colored hat band. We note a Wade-Gery boy in 1873. Thus we can assume the boys wearing them went to private schools that had uniforms. We note the Gibbs family in 1906. Almost the entire family wore boaters. They were widely worn at many private schools, but in the 19th century were not just school wear. After the early-20th century and World War, the boater becomes less common and most of the boaters we still see were worn as part of school uniforms.
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