** English boy clothes -- suits types collar-buttoning jackets








English Boys Suits: Types--Collar-buttoning Jackets


Figure 1.--This CDV portrait shows an unidentified English boy wearing a velvet collar-buttoning jacket with longish knee pants as was common at the time. Note rhe samall ruffled collar ahd bow. This mosdest neck wear was common before the Fauntleroy Crazeof the 1880s. The outfit is complered with awide-brimmed hat carefully podition to show his hair, light-colored long stockings. and high top shoes. The portrait is undated, but we would guess the 1870s, perhaps the early-80s. The studio was Herriott in Berwick on Tweed.

We also see English boys wearing suit jackets that buttoned at the collar meaning there were no lapels. We do not always see the actual button because of collar and neckwear, but the collar-buttoning style is apparent. It was a very common style very common style. We are not sure just when it first appeared. Almost certainly it was in the mid-19th century, probanly the 1940s. It oersusted into the early-20tyh century. We are not sure about the origins, but it may have been influenced by military styles. It certainly was in America ehere it wa the style worn by Federal soldiers. We are less sure about England. Fashions generlly developed in England and France and other European countries and spread across the Atlantic to America. This may not be the case here. A lot of American collar-buttoning jackets were done with military styling like brass buttons. We do not see this in Britain, but we also do not have as large an English archive as our American archive. We do see a few English images of boys wearing these jackets, but not nearly as many as in Anetic and only from the 1860s. Our very limited English archive from this period makes it difficult to assess the chonology with any percission. We have been able to archive very few English Dags (1840s-50s) and Ambros (1850s). The earlier Dags and Ambros are much less common in England than America. We first begin to see the collar-buttoning jackets when CDVs become available in quantity (1860s). From this period we do have a considerable archive and information on English fashion trends. We see collar buttoning jackets throuhout the rest of the 19th century and into the early-20th century. They were a boys' style. We do not see men wearing them. This seems to have been a style common for low-cost suits for boys, but we also see them done in velvet which would have been for more well-to-do fmilies. Social class factors msy hve been involved here, which of course affected who was taking their children to the photographic studio. We note two types of collar buttioning hackerts, those with nd without collars conncted to the jacket nd done in the same material. This is not always easy to identify because some collars, like the lace collar the boy here is wearing. covered the top of the jacket (figure 1).

Terminology

We call these suits collar-buttoning suits, basically a description. We are nmot sdure ehazt they were called at the time in England. We see one company sescribing them as 'Sultan Suits.' presumbly referring o the collar buttoning. Norfolk suitys were also done as collar buttoining suits, but they were called Norfolk suis because of the destuncr stylung of vertical plearts and belts. '

Collar Button

We also see English boys wearing suit jackets that buttoned at the collar meaning there were no lapels. We do not always see the actual button because of collar and neckwear, but the collar-buttoning style is apparent. As best we can tell, bioyy almodst alwats secured the coolar button.

Prevalence

It was a very common stylee.

Chronology

We are not sure just when it first appeared. Almost certainly it was in the mid-19th century, probanly the 1940s. It oersusted into the early-20tyh century. We are not sure about the origins, but it may have been influenced by military styles. It certainly was in America ehere it wa the style worn by Federal soldiers. We are less sure about England. Fashions generlly developed in England and France and other European countries and spread across the Atlantic to America. This may not be the case here. A lot of American collar-buttoning jackets were done with military styling like brass buttons. We do not see this in Britain, but we also do not have as large an English archive as our American archive. We do see a few English images of boys wearing these jackets, but not nearly as many as in America and only from the 1860s. Our very limited English archive from this period makes it difficult to assess the chonology with any percission. We have been able to archive very few English Dags (1840s-50s) and Ambros (1850s). The earlier Dags and Ambros are much less common in England than America. We first begin to see the collar-buttoning jackets when CDVs become available in quantity (1860s). From this period we do have a considerable archive and information on English fashion trends. We see collar buttoning jackets throuhout the rest of the 19th century and into the early-20th century.

Age

They were a boys' style. We do not see men wearing them.

Social Class

This seems to have been a style common for low-cost suits for boys, but we also see them done in velvet which would have been for more well-to-do fmilies. These velvet suits were mostly for younger boys. Social class factors msy hve been involved here, which of course affected who was taking their children to the photographic studio.

Types

We note two basic types of collar buttoning jackerts, those with and without collars. The collars that some had were conncted to the jacket were done in the same material. This is not always easy to identify because some collars, like the lace collar the boy here is wearing, covered the top of the jacket (figure 1). We do not notice really large collars, but thu were real collzrs that can be eaily seen is covdered by a large detachable collar. Both the jackets with and without collars were worn with detchable collars. Younger boys might wear lace collars. Older boys mostly wore Eton collars with these collar buttoning

Vests

We note collar-buttoning vesrs. They were one with lapel jacks, called dack syuts. These were popular until nerck ties became standard.






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Created: 3:49 PM 11/8/2014
Last updated: 12:24 PM 9/19/2021