Figure 1.--This ad is from the 'Idaho Daily Statesman', Boise, Idaho, September 8, 1922--an ad aimed at schoolboys and mothers shopping for them. It was placed by the Golden Rule Make It Right Store. The illustration shows a Norfolk knickers suit. It was a blue serge suit, a classic American suit style. The advertisement also covers a number of items need for back to school. Notice the boy is depicted with hius books in the way to school. This included a list of the major items worn by American boys at the time. This included shirtwaists, blouses, long stockings, underwaists, waist union suits, and regular union suits.

This ad is from the Idaho Daily Statesman, Boise, Idaho, September 8, 1922--an ad aimed at schoolboys and mothers shopping for them. It was placed by the Golden Rule Make It Right Store. The illustration shows a Norfolk knickers suit. It was a blue serge suit, a classic American suit style. The advertisement also covers a number of items need for back to school. Notice the boy is depicted with hius books in the way to school. This included a list of the major items worn by American boys at the time. This included shirtwaists, blouses, long stockings, underwaists, waist union suits, and regular union suits. The variety of stockings is quite extensive, probably because this was an item that wore out quickly. It also shows how common long stockings were in the early 1920s.

Newspaper Advertisements

Newspaper ads are a useful addition to the more easily accessible major catalogs (Sears and Wards). As aesult we are ading these ads to our catalog pages. Newspapers throughout the 20th century were a major way that loval stores advertised their merchandise. Interestingly, there seems to be no focus on adverising sales in the early 20th century. By the end of the century, however, there werre commonly sales ads.

Golden Rule Make It Right Store

We didn't know much about the Golden Rule Make It Right Store. It looked to me like a chain, but that is just a guess. We think the ad mentioned "stores" so there must have been more than one. But probably not in Boise in 1922. We notice tokens given out my the Golden Rule Store marked Mountain Home, Idaho. Apparently Jasmes Cash (J.C.) Penney's first stores were not calledf J.C. Penny/ but Golden Rule stores. Penny established his first store in the minning community of Kemmerer, Wyoming, in 1902. There he reportedly competed for customers with 21 saloons. From this beginning, Penney built a huge empire of dry goods stores. The name came from his decesion to use the Golden Rule as his basic commercial principle. After clerking in one store, Cash helped a partner start a new store. He eventually bought thast first a Golden Rule store in Kemmerer. Penny incorporated J.C. Penney and Company, Inc (1913). Unscrupulous competitors begun to use the Golden Rule name. Apparently it was not possible to trademark the Golden Rule. Thus we are not sure if the store here was a J.C. Penny store. By 1922 we are guessing that the store names had been changed. Thevillustration, however, does look like a Penny's style ad.

Serge

Serge is an important woolen/worsted weave which developed from a silk weave. Serge includes a variety of twill weave fabrics with a characteristic diagonal wale. The term serge first appears in the 14th Century. It is often used to apply specifically to a smoothly finished worsted suiting fabric. It was commonly used for boys suits in the late 19th and early 20th Century for boys suits because of its smart look and long-wearing characteristics. We note it being usedc both for sailor suits and regular sack suits. We have noticed many American and English garments made out of serge. A French reader notes that it was also commonly used in France for winter clothing, incuding long and short trousers. A dark blue serge suit was a classic American suit from the early 20th century.

Long Stockings

Long stockings in the early 1920s tended to be similar to those worn in earlier decades. They tended to be relatively short, often only just a little above the knee. As they were designed to be worn with kneepamts or knickers, they did not have to rise much above the knee. They were also usually a bit thicker and quite ribbed in texture. Of course rayon was not an option during these earlier times. Dark stockings were more prevalent in the early 1920s, although white was available for girls and dressy wear for boys. As boys began wearing short pants or abovve the knee knickers and girls shorter skirts, much longer stockings appeared. Stockings also were primarily made in cotton by the late 1920s and wool stockings were no longer commonly available. As a resullt children's long stockings had a much trimmer fit. Colors began to change in the mid-1920s with lighter colored browns and tans becoming more common than the dark long stockings that were once so common. A good example of the stockings available can be found in the Sears 1924 catalog. Sears still had dark stockings for boys, but offered several styles in lighter colors.

Long Stocking Colors

We have begun to develop information on long stocking colors. The long stockings offered here are cordovan, black, brown, and white. Black was the main color. Brown and cordovan were worn with brown suits. We are not sure why white was offered. It was not a color commonly worn by boys. We do see some young boys wearing white stockings with juvenile suits and First Communion outfits. It is interesting thast bluestockings were not offered even though a blue suit is featured. Er think that this was because black webt well and could not be readily destinguished from dark blue/navy suits. And in any vases black shoes were wirn with these suits. A reader wtites, "In all my reading of old catalogues and newspaper ads, I have never seen an advertisement for blue long stockings. For really formal occasions, at least for boys over ten, black stockings were almost always the rule, even into the early 1920s, if boys were wearing dark blue or dark gray suits. The tan stockings began to be common for short trousers and lighter colored suits and sportier outfits with sweaters. But for church or really dress-up occasions, most boys continued to wear black stockings with knickers--or at least very dark colors, gray or 'cordovan' (dark brown with a slight reddish cast). Black stockings were nearly always worn with dark blue knicker suits. Patterned knee socks with striped cuffs came in during the later 1920s and 1930s, I believe. Of course, I'm speaking here oof American boys' fashions. Lighter colors came earlier in Europe, I think. But even in Europe, I don't think I have ever come across blue long stockings for boys--at least not in the 20th century. Afactor here is thast boys commonly weore dark or navy blue suits and black went well with these suits."

Ages

This advertisement has a lot if interesting information about age conventions. It features many of the gaments boys commonly wore at the time. And the size details here give some idea about the age of the boys wearing them. One interesting aspect is the difference between the sizes of knickers suits and the waists used to hold up the stickings. The older boys wore stockings as well, but did not wear waists to hold them up.

Golden Rule Make It Right Store Ad Copy

The Golden Rule Make It Right Store ad copy read provides useful infomation about material, sizes, and construction details. Note how many oif the itemns refer to either ling stockings or the wausts to hold them up. That is a strong indicator of how common long stockings were at the time.

Blue Serge Suits $9.95

The ad copy read, "Boys’ Blue Serge Suits of extra fine quality, fine weave, heavy weight, all wool blue serge clothes. Have one pair of beautifully tailored, full line trousers. A serge you will be proud to have the boy wear any place. This serge beats the country for value giving as you’ll see when you compare them. Ages 6 to 18 years; the suit $9.95." This was a real standard for boys wear in the early 1920s. Note the Norfolk styling. Note that they weredone in sizes up to 18. Older boys age 17-18 were less liley to wear knickers in the 1920s than the 1910s, but there were still some that did in the early 20s.

Waists

Here the store uses the term waist as a kind of shirt. Earlier they did not have collars, but by the 1920s the term generally meant a shirt with buttons at the waist for a support function. The ad copy read, "Boys’ waists in plain blue, plain gray or striped blue chambray, a well cut, finely tailored blouse, soft collar, button at cuff, ages 6 6o 16. 59 cents. Boys’ waists in fine quality striped percales, same cut and tailoring; ages 6 6o 16. 59 cents."

Blouses

The ad copy read, "Boys’ blouse, fine quality, assorted striped percale and madras cloths; ages 6 to 16. 95 cents."

Newsboy Heavy Stockings, 4 Pairs. 95 cents

Long stockings were still commonly worn in the 1920s. Purchases in September would be for heavy-weight stockings to be worn in the Winter. The ad copy read, "The supreme value in boys’ stockings. We don’t believe there’s another its equal at the price. Come in a fine black, also a good shade of brown. Priced the pair, 25 cents. 4 pairs for 95 cents."

No. 1 Buster Brown Heavy Stockings For Boys

The ad copy read, "Heavy ribbed, long wearing combed yarn stockings, made with reinforced double knees and heavy feet. Are knit very elastic in a good firm black, fully guaranteed to give service. They are priced for school days at 3 pairs for $1.00." There is no mention of color. Presumably they were black.

Buster Brown Seconds

The ad copy read, "An extra heavy stocking for boys. Knit from a real good quality combed cotton. Heavy ribbed, but elastic. Have triple thread knees and come in black only. Sizes 8 to 10 ½ ." This would be for boys as old as 15 or 16 years of age." Notice they were only available in black.

Children’s fine Ribbed Stockings

The ad copy read, "These are sub-standards of a real fine combed yarn. Knit firm, but are elastic. Every pair of seconds carry the same guarantee of service as our regular numbers. Black, white and brown. Sizes 5 to 10. Price for school days at 3 pairs for 50 cents." Here we have three colors offered. White was not very common for boys, except for younger boys. They were commonly worn by girls. Boys suits were mostly blue and brown. Note there were bo blue stockings offered.

Newsboy Seconds

The ad copy read, "These stockings are made from the same good old quality as our regular newsboys—and think of the low price! A real combed yarn, heavy ribbed hose in black and brown. 6 pairs for 89 cents."

No. 4033 Children’s fine Mercerized Lisle Stockings

The ad copy read, "Made from a fine grade of combed cotton with very elastic knit ribbed legs and seamless feet. These are of second quality, but will give service. In black, white and cordovan. Price the pair, 25 cents. 4 pairs for 95 cents." Note thast in addition to black and white stockings, cordovan stocklings were offered. Presumably they were worn with brown suits and mastched cordovan shoes.

Children’s School Waists

The ad copy read, "A patented knitted wiast for both boys and girls. Have knitted tape and straps on the shoulders. Are equipped with pin tubes for supporters; also have large bone buttons for the outer garments. Sizes 2 to 12 years. Priced, the wait, 25 cents."

Cub Waist Combination Union Suits For Children

The ad copy read, "A real fine combed cotton with a soft brushing fleece lining. In drop seat style [with waist buttons and attachments for supporters]. Priced the suit, 75 cents. To: Dennis Weidner "Cub Waists" is a phrase that I have seen before. It usually refers to underwaists for younger children, probably ten or younger. In this case the phrase is used for a Waist Combination Union Suit, which means a waist union suit for younger children, probably no older than twelve. As you know waist union suits were like regular union suits (they came in both summer and winter styles) but that also had the features of an underwaist (reinforced straps over the shoulders, taped-on buttons for trousers or other clothing, and eyelets, pin tubes, or tape loops for the attachment of hose supporters.

No. 931 Child’s Medium Weight [Union] Suits

The ad copy read, "They are made from a selected grade of combed cotton. Seams are finished flat with the special lock stitching to prevent ripping. Drop seat style with high neck, long sleeves. Also elbow sleeve, ankle length; also elbow sleeve, knee length. Sizes 2 to 8, priced 79 cents. Sizes 10 to 16, priced 98 cents."

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Created: 6:47 PM 11/8/2007
Last updated: 6:47 PM 11/8/2007