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We do not yet have much information on boys' suits in 1922. We note that Norfolk styling was still popular. We also see both single- and double-breasted jackets. We note boys wearing short, knicker, and long pants. We also see kneepants suits, but kneepants were rapidly goung out of style. Knicker suits were by far the most common and were worn at lengths both above and below the knee. All of the major catalogs offer mostly knicker suits for boys. We see some short pants suits offered by the high-end retailers, presumably inflfuenced by British styles. The mass-market catalogs, however, mostly offer knicker suits. Knicker suits. Older boys might wear long pants suits, but theough the mid-teens, boys mostly wore knicker suits. The knoicker suits were primarily worn with long stockings, and the catalog illustrayions show this. We nostly see black stockings in the early 20s. We see some boys wearing kneesocks, but long stockings were much more common.
Here we have a charming illustration of boys' suits from a Hart, Schnaffer & Marx advertisement (Chicago, 1922). The two boys, about 12 years old, are at the train station where one of the two boys is opening a crate that contains the dog he has been sent as a Christmas present. The two boys are quite formally dressed, although one is more dressed up than his companion. The boy in the dark double breasted, above-the-knee knicker suit has apparently just arrived
on the same train as the dog. He carries his overcoat with him and wears a matching flat cap as well as long black stockings. His friend, the boy opening the crate, is a bit more informal--with a single breasted belted knicker suit (perhaps a Norfolk style suit) with buttoned side pockets. He has bare knees and wears knee socks with patterned cuffs.
This Wards page was headed, ""All wool Suits that Wear Well". Wards offered Knicker suits for boys in sizes from 9 to 18 years of age. Some boys in the early 1920s often wore knickers until they graduated from high school, i.e., up to the age of 18, although some more liberally minded parents allowed boys to switch to long trousers at 16 or 17. There was some overlap. Notice that all the jackets pictured here have a degree of Norfolk styling. The illustratin here offers useful information on the construction of knickers. Notice the bottom illustration that shows the way the trousers are doubly reinforced.
This ad is from the Idaho Daily Statesman, Boise, Idaho, Sept 8, 1922--an ad aimed at schoolboys and mothers shopping for them. It was place by the Golden Rule Make It Right Store. The illustration shows a Norfolk knickers suit. It was a blue serge suit, a classic American suit style. The advertisement also covers a number of items need for back to school. This included a list of the major items wirn by boys at the time. This included shirtwaists, blouses, long stockings, underwaists, waist union suits, and regular union suits. The variety of stockings is quite extensive, probably because this was an item that wore out quickly.
This is a page from the National Cloak and Suit Company based in New York and Kansas City. National Cloak and Suit was founded around (1888). It was reorganized as the National Bellas Hess Company (1910). They had a very substantial 7 story building in Kansas City. It was built (1919). One report indicates, "Two thousand people are employed in this building, which also contains a thoroughly modern hospital, cafeteria, recreation room, ball grounds, tennis courts, etc. " The company relocated to Armor Road in North Kansas City (1927). .
Bellas Hess was one of the top five mail order companies in the country, generating sales of more than $250 million a year through the mailing of 25 million catalogs. The company declared bankruptcy (1970s). Former employees attribute the company’s demise to losing focus on the mail order business in favor of discount retail stores and supermarkets. Their 1922
catalog was substantial. This is page 294. That seems like a very large catalog for coats and suits. The page had several different styles of knicker suits. All were lapel suits with only minor stylistic differences. One option offers a second pair of pants. All look to be shown with long stockings instead of knee socks. The illustrations show mostly high-top shoes. They were dine for ages 8-18 years of age which would mean into high school, although this varied some hat for the different styles. They were done with different fabrics, but cheviot was very important. One cheviot suit was done with a wool/cotton blend and was only $3.98. Most of the suits were all wool and more expensive.
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