Trousers and Pants: Chronology


Figure 1.--Boys during the first half of the 19th century mostly wore long pants after breeching. At mid-century, younger boys began wearing various trpes of shirtened-length pants. By the late 19th century older boys were lso wearing shotened-length pants. Kneepants became very common in America. There were, however, variationsd from country to country. This image is unidentified, except that the children are American. The portrait was taken at the J.M. Harkless Studio, Union St, College Hill, Valpariso, Indiana. The portrait was probably taken in the 1880s.

Both men and boys in the 18th century wore knee breeches. The first destinctive boy's fashions was long trousers worn as part of skelaton suits which are popular by the 1780s, even before the French Revolution (1789). By the 1820s both men and boys were wearing long tousers. Thus began to change in the mid-19th century when boys began wearing various types of shortened trousers. Boys by the 1850s and even more so the 1860s were increasingly wearing bloomer-styled knickers, although long trousers were still common--especially for working-class boys. In America, a more slim fitting straight leg version became the standard. These knepants were open rather than gathered at or below the the knee and usually had three ornamental butons, harkening back to the button closures on knee breeches. They were commonly worn at calf length. These kneepants were very widely worn by the 1870s and by the 1890s even quite old teenage boys were wearing them. By the end of the century, knickers and knepants were worn at knee length or even above the knee. Short pants for boys had appeared in the 1890s, but were forst worn by younger boys. American boys except in the South mostly insisted on wearing knickers. A variety of play outfits for younger boys such a romper and overalls in the 1900s. Olderboys in the 1930s begin to wear long trousers more commonly, more in America than Europe. This trend becomes increasingly common after World War II (1939-45), even in Europe. Short pants begin to become more popular in the 1960s, but increasingly as casul clothes. Jeans ar commonly worn by Americn boys in the 1950s and begin to become stylish worldwide phenomenon in the 1960s. Longer shorts appear in the 1990s and by the late 1990s baggy syles of both shorts an longs become popular. The history of boys' trousers and pants (as we now call them in America) is somewhat complex. The various terms can be confusing and lead to misunderstandings. We are arrangig the chronology section so you can follow trends chronologically for pants in genera; or persue the chronology by type of pants, material or subject like length, gender, and age.

Terminology Note

The history of boys' trousers and pants (as we now call them in America) is somewhat complex. The various terms can be confusing and lead to misunderstandings. First we should note that the terms "Trousers" and "Pants" are modern terms, dating only from the 19th century or later, and that "Pants" (meaning outer garments for the lower body) is strictly an American and Canadian term. It is only in fairly recent history that boys' clothes were distinguished from the clothing of male adults, and boys (in the 18th century and earlier) were dressed pretty much like their fathers after the point at which they were "breeched". Before breeching (up until about the age of 5 or 6), boys wore dresses and were dressed no differently from girls. For the styles of boys' dress up until the 19th century, we have to rely mainly on paintings and engravings, and because paintings tended to depict the aristocratic classes rather than the lower orders of society, our illustrations are usually drawn from this class. Frequently, our best examples come from portraits of royalty.

Chronological Periods

Both men and boys in the 18th century wore knee breeches. The first destinctive boy's fashions was long trousers worn as part of skelaton suits which are popular by the 1780s, even before the French Revolution (1789). At the time laborers, the sans culottes wore trousers, but gentlemen continued wearing kneebreeches until well after the turn of the 19th century. By the 1920s both men and boys were wearing long tousers. Thus began to change in the mid-19th century when boys began wearing various types of shortened trousers. Boys by the 1850s and even more so the 1860s were increasingly wearing bloomer-styled knickers, although long trousers were still common--especially for working-class boys. These bloomer knickers, called knickers, were a practical alternative to long trousers for active boys. The bloomer knickers were loose pants gathered at the knee. Styles varied from country to country. In America, a more slim fitting straight leg version became the standard. These knepants were open rather than gathered at or below the the knee and usually had three ornamental butons, harkening back to the button closures on knee breeches. They were commonly worn at calf length. These kneepants were very widely worn by the 1870s and by the 1890s even quite old teenage boys were wearing them. In Europe the bloomer knickers as well as knickers with button closures were more popular. By the turn of the 20th century kneepants After the turn of the centuropen-ended version, reaching below the knee and worn with stockings. By the end of the century, knickers and knepants were worn at knee length or even above the knee. Short pants for boys had appeared in the 1890s, but were first worn by younger boys. There use by the British Army in tropical postings and then by the Boy Scouts and Wandervogel had by the 1910s made them increasingl popular for older boys in Eurpope. American boys except in the South mostly insisted on wearing knickers. A variety of play outfits for younger boys such a romper and overalls in the 1900s. Olderboys in the 1930s begin to wear long trousers more commonly, more in America than Europe. This trend becomes increasingly common after World War II (1939-45), even in Europe. Short pants begin to become more popular in the 1960s, but increasingly as casul clothes. Jeans ar commonly worn by Americn boys in the 1950s and begin to become stylish worldwide phenomenon in the 1960s. Longer shorts appear in the 1990s and by the late 1990s baggy syles of both shorts an longs become popular.

Pants Types

Boys have over time worn a wide range of different kinds of pants and the different types have varied substantially over time. For many years as pants developed, both boys and men wore the same styles. Boys for most of the 18th century wore knee breeches like their fathers. Long pants appeared in the late 19th cenntury with skeleton suits--the first dedicated outfit for children in the modern age. Boys wore long pants for much of the 19th century, especially the early and mid-19th century. Bloomer knickers and kneepants appeared in the mid-9th century. Kneepants were a major style for boys by the late 19th century. Sone boys wore long pants, but knee pants became a standard styles for boys. Short pants for boys had appeared in the 1890s, but were not very common, mostly worn by younger boys. There use by the British Army in tropical postings and then by the Boy Scouts and Wandervogel had by the 1910s made them increasingl popular for older boys in Eurpope. They were widely worn by European boys for severl decades. Knickers also became important in the early 20th century, especially in America. Long pants began to increase in popularity after World War II. And now are a standard style. Short pants evolved into casualwear during warm weather. A variety of play outfits for younger boys such a romper and overalls in the 1900s. We also notice style like Capri pants.

Material


Length

The length of trousers or pants have varied signicantly over time. Noth men and boys wore knee breeches in the 18th century. There were some exceptions sich as working-class people and individuals on the frontier in America. Knee breeches went out of style in the 19th century as long pants became populr. A factor here was the French Revolution and knee breeches became seen as aristocratic. Boys were the first to wear long trousers as part of skeletin suits. Gradually men also began wearing them. Shortened-length pants appeared in the mid-19th century, both bloomer knickers and knee pants. They were worn by younger boys. We do not see older boys wearing knee pants and knickers until the late-19th century. These shortened-length pants were seen as a juvenile style. American and European trends were similar in the 19th century, in parts because styles were mostly set in Europe. This begn to change in the 20th century. Knee pants were very common in the 1900s. Boys also wore tunics with bloomer knickers. American boys began commonly wearing knickers in the 1910s, but in Europe during the 1910s boys wore knee pants and mostly short pants in the 1920s. European boys also wore knickers, but mostly older boys. After World War II knickers went out of style. Boys in Europe commonly wore short pants while in Ameruca jeans and other long pnts were more common. European children began wearing American styles in the 1960s. Short pants at the same time became less of a juvenile style and more of a casual summer syle that both men and boys wore.

Age

Age at times has been a major factor in determining the type of pants a boy wore. Boys and men wore similar trousers through much of the 18th century and for much of the mid-19th century. The same has been the case since the late 20th century. At other times there have been destinctive pants for boys, first long pants (1790-1820) and then various types of shortened-length pants (1870-1960). We are developing decade pages to assess the various trends and conventions over time. See for example the 1920s

Gender

Pants were a garment primasrily for men and boys. Girls until safter World War I (1914-18) almost always wire dresses. We see women wearing pants in the 1930s, but not very commonly. We first notice girlsd wearing pants after World War II (1939-45) in the 1950s, but most girls wore dresses until the 1960s. Gender trends are discussed in more detail on some decade pages, see the 1950s,

Hosiery

Boys have worn a wide range of hosiery with different types of pants. These have included ankle socks, three-quater socks, knee socks, long stockings, and tights. And of course boys have gone barefoot and not worn hosiery. The types of hosiery worn and the age and gender conventions associated with the various types of hosiery have varied over time. We are developing decade pages to assess the trends and conventions. See for example the 1920s and the 1930s.

Sources








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Created: 9:51 PM 2/5/2006
Last updated: 10:11 PM 12/15/2007