English School Uniform: Late 19th Century


Figure 1.--Boys at state schools didm't wear uniform, but most wore suits (often Norfolk suits) with Eton collars. A few boy would come to school in their sailor suits which were very popular in the 1890s.

The idea of a standard school uniform gradually was accepted and by the 1870s was widely observed at most public (private) schools. The clothing list at these schools could be amazingly extensive. Another part of the reforms implemented at mid-century was to separate or take special steps to protect the younger boys. Many preparatory schools appeared in the late 19th century to accomodate the needs of the yonger boys. Uniform requirements were more relacked at these new schools, but they gradually adopted uniform requirrements as well. England began to develop a pubically financed state school system. The English effort to found a national system of state schools lagged behind several countries on the continent. Countries like Prussia at an early stage saw an educated population as important in building a strong state. Important elemenent in England were concerned about the social impact of educating the working class. Despite the misgivings, there was a great expansion of schools for the average English boy during the late 19th century. A wide variety of schools were opened, including ragged schools, board schools, national schools and several others. Only by the late 19th century did educational reforms began creating a national system of state schools out of the variety of schools that had been created. Uniforms were not required at these elementary schools. State financed secondary schools were a rarity throughout the 19th century.

Chronology

The idea of a standard school uniform gradually was accepted and by the 1870s was widely observed at mpst public schools. The clothing list at these schools coulod be amazingly extensive. Another part of the reforms implemented at mid-century was to separate or take special steps to protect the younger boys. Many preparatory schools appeared in the late 19th century to accomodate the needs of the yonger boys. Uniform requirements were more relacked at these new schools, but they gradually adopted uniform requirrements as well. England began to develop a pubically financed state school system. The English effort to found a national system of state schools lagged behind several countries on the continent. Countries like Prussia at an early stage saw an educated population as important in building a strong state. Important elemenent in England were concerned about the social impact of educating the working class. Despite the misgivings, there was a great expansion of schools for the average English boy during the late 19th century. A wide variety of schools were opened, including ragged schools, board schools, national schools and several others. Only by the late 19th century did educational reforms began creating a national system of state schools out of the variety of schools that had been created. Uniforms were not required at these elementary schools. State financed secondary schools were a rarity throughout the 19th century.

Types of Schools

Private schools

Many new public schools were opened in theblate 19th century. Beauracrats were needed to staff the expanding British Empire. The new schools almost invairably incorporated the idea of a standard uniform in their program.

Another part of the reforms implemented at mid-century was to separate or take special steps to protect the younger boys. Many preparatory schools appeared in the late 19th century to accomodate the needs of the yonger boys. Uniform requirements were more relacked at these new schools, but they gradually adopted uniform requirrements as well.


Figure 2.--English boys in the late 1890s wore suits to school with a variety of trousers. They wore mostly knickers and kneepants. At state schools this was not a requirement as there were no set uniforms, it was just the style for boys.

State schools

England began to develop a pubically financed state school system. The English effort to found a national system of state schools lagged behind several countries on the continent. Countries like Prussia at an early stage saw an educated population as important in building a strong state. Important elemenent in England were concerned about the social impact of educating the working class. Despite the misgivings, there was a great expansion of schools for the average English boy during the late 19th century. A wide variety of schools were opened, including ragged schools, board schools, national schools and several others. Only after 1870 did educational reforms beginn creating a national system of state schools out of the variety of schools that had been created. For the first time school attendance was made compulsory. Uniforms were not required at state elementary schools. Except for the youngest boys, however, suits with Eton collars were the most common outfit. State financed secondary schools did not exist throughout the 19th century.


Figure 3.--Most boys wore suits to school, but a few younger boys wore blouses, with very large collars. Note the one boy in short pants and kneesocks. This was not yet yet common, but it shows that English boys had begun to wear shorts even before Baden Powell and the Scout movement.

Garments

The clothing list at these schools coulod be amazingly extensive. Caps were almost always worn. The peaked cap was a standard. Boys at some schools wore the rather unpractical boater. Jackets varied. Eton and Norfolk jackets were the most common. Some of the younger boys might wear their sailor suits which were very popular at the time. Some schools, primarily the private schools, required the boys to wear knickers and long stockings or kneesocks. Perhaps more imprtantly such trousers were the ordinary boys' style and thus schools did not have to require that they be worn to achieve uniformity. Most boys wore their suit suits with white stiffly starched Eton collars. Many schools did insist on Eton collars, but again this was not always necessary. Many parents simply saw the Eton collar as a necessary element of good dress and would have not thought about sending their sons off to school without a crisp white Eton collar. At private boarding schools the Eton collars were provided the boys and they were expected to wear them. There was often an extensive list of sports clothing. Blazers were still primarily worn for games (sports).

Coparable Dress in Other Countries

It is interesting to dress what school boys wore in other countries during the late 19th century.

France

Many French boys in the late 19th cebtury wore smocks and berets to school. I believe this was a stanfard set by the national government after a new republican government steeped in equality replaced Napoleon III as a result of France's defeat in the Franco-Prussian War. Sailor suits were also much more common for schoolwear than in England.

Germany

Sailor suits were particularly popular in Germany and were often worn to school during the late 19th century.

Italy

I do not yet have any information on 19th century Italian schoolwear, but would be interested in any insights from HBC readers.

United States

American schoolwear during the late 19th century was similar English styles. American boys more commonly wore sailor suits, but not as much as in Germany. Norfolk suits were also common as were Eton collars, but not as much as in England. There were significant differences in American between urban and rural schools. Dress in rural schools was often work clothes. In many cases rural boys did not have a dress suit, thus overalls would be commonly worn.






Additional Information

Related Links: Careful this will exit you from the Boys' Historical Clothing web site, but both sites are highly recommended

Apertures Press International Project: Pictures at schools in different countries and a book on British schools
Apertures Press New Zealand book: New book on New Zealand schools in progress
Boys' Preparatory Schools: Lovely photographic essay of British preparatory schools with some over 200 color and black and white photographs depicting the schools during the 1980s
School Uniform Web SiteInformative review of British school uniforms with some excellent photographs




Christopher Wagner

histclo@lycosmail.com


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Created: November 11, 1999
Last updated: November 11, 1999